Guide - Changing Rear Axle Bushes
Originally posted on Briskoda by member
Printable PDF version here
Hi folks here is a DIY thread on replacing Rear axle bushes.
It is not hugely technical job but you need patience and plan for not having car
done in a day. I think I could probably do the Job in 4 hours now providing no
unplanned issues arise. And with this pics and instructions you should do it
quicker than I did on my first attempt which was approx 7 hours. Although this
did include taking pics and fussing around with other areas to sort whilst car
up in the air.
Main Tools needed.
Sockets and spanners:
14mm (Whiteline RARB bolts/nuts if one is fitted)
16mm (rear shock lower bolts/nuts need replacing)
18mm (axle bush bolts/nuts),
19mm (home made bush installation tool)
Drill and Drill bits
Home made Bush installation tool.
Trust me you need it or get the laser or Sealey item for VW.
Like this one :
I could not justify the cost for one time use so made one up out of a long bolt couple of nuts from B&Q and some thick metal brackets from Wickes all costing approx £8
Rear Axle Bushes 6Q0 501 541E Skoda Fabia VRS Bush
Euro Car parts p/n 610780015 £24.86
Bolts and nuts Bush Bolt – N10409903 (x2)
Bush nut – N10106402 (x2)
Lower shock Bolt – N90517304 (x2)
Lower shock nut – N10286110 £11.70
I went with the Fabia VRS bush, as believe it or not is stronger than the Octy VRS one and more solid design
Here is a pic of the 2 side by side. Fabia then Octy
Here is a link to the VW site for more info and some alternative bushes to consider like the Leon Cupra R one although is very similar to the Fabia VRS one.
So here Goes.
The route I took was to jack car up and support both sides on axle stands (my axle stands have grooves in for the sills so could support on the still no worries)
I think I followed the manual to a certain extent but I did one side at a time, so I did not completely remove beam,
Thought I would show just how low the front end is with the back end jacked up. (Like a hover)
Here is the Axle bush and bolt shown that will be removed
Support the beam on the side you are working on with a trolley jack
Remove the lower shock bolt/nut (these will be replaced with p/n listed above) note I have a Whiteline RARB so that box bracket needs to be removed also.
Now I unclipped rear handbrake cable from its position on the beam.
I then unclipped the metal brake line that is fitted into plastic clips along the rear beam to brake calliper, and then I prized off the brake line seating clip on the bracket that sits on the front of the beam, and used a hacksaw to carefully cut a slit through the bracket and bent it outwards slightly to allow the metal brake pipe to be moved out of the bracket so not to be strained when beam is lowered. This method stops the need to re bleed system.
Pic shown of bracket.
With the lower shock bolts removed then undid the Axle bush bolt/nut and removed them
I lowered one side of beam on trolley jack which gives enough room to get to the bush. (checking any restrictions like brake lines were not being strained)
Pic shows the metal brake line out of its clips and the axle bush exposed
Drill out the rubber section in the old bush. I found gradually drilling these out and then whacking out the centre piece the best way after trying other options.
Most of the VRS bushes are plastic sleeved so once the centre bit is out you can wedge a flat screwdriver between the sleeve and axle lip and tap it through this will collapse the sleeve and make it easier to knock out
Old section of bush and sleeve removed
Bush housing aperture cleaned up and greased ready for new bush.
DIY install tool that is now needed
The new bush (I used a Fabia VRS one which is the same style as the LCR and ICR) they are different part number and prices. As the golf forums are all using the fabia VRS ones I went with this. The standard Octy VRS bush is the same as the Golf ones that I checked out and there is a obvious difference between them and the Fabia, LCR and ICR Bush. You can follow the link post above to see the options and description on the available bushes.
Also in page 4 of that li nk below it is CRUCIAL that you fit the bushes in the correct way. From inside of the beam outwards and the correct orientation of the bush inside the beam aperture.
The bushes were not going to go in without that DIY tool not in a million years. It is crucial to get the bush in centrally which took me a few goes of tightening it, undoing it and tapping it central and then once central the bush started to wind in. Used lots of grease to line the axle bush aperture and then lots of WD40 on the bush going in. Then when I reached the end on the DIY tool ( approx 30mm ) hammered home the rest of the bush to close the gap
Pic show the bush and install tool set and ready to tighten up to wind bush into slot
bush slowly going in
Note the correct orientation of the bush (key slots) in the axle
Beam repositioned and new Bolt/nut fitted. (torque 33lbs, then turned further 90’)
Refit Lower shock with new bolt/nut ( torque 44lbs although I ended up a little less as thought bolt would snap, checked and correct to manual, but seems too high to me?)
Refit the brake lines to their position and hand brake cables and job done.
Whilst car was in the air, the rear springs, RARB and shocks got a good clean and the Rear beam a scrape and waxoyl.
Well was the hard work worth it
I should say, as the car feels more planted and having had a few brisk runs no more banging and loose feel.
Hope this helps folks